Posted 20 hours ago

Spyderco Knife Sharpener Tri-angle Sharpmaker Used to Sharpen Hunting Knives & Self Sharpening Knife by Using Ceramic Knife Sharpening Stone

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Form a micro bevel with clean DMT Extra Fine bench stone to remove the burr,,,, final light passes on diamond leather to refine the apex. But when reading a lot of the maintenance, fine tuning and modding you guys are doing, I am totally lost. Can you guys please suggest some basic tools to get me started? For one, I think I need some torx wrenches or something, I can't find the size that fits the screws in the Spydercos I have, as they don't seem to be a common size (are there more than one size?). Also, I'd like to learn how to sharpen my own knives, a goal made harder by the fact that I am a big fan of the combo edge and serration in general (to me I don't understand why they even make so many plain edge blades). Anything else I need to get started? I have some good lubes already from firearms, I suppose they're ok for knives?

It’s an oil-free system so forget about buying any honing oil as it’s simply not needed. The system also comes with brass rods which act as a safety barrier to ensure your delicate hands are well protected. In fact, it’s near-on impossible to cut yourself using this system. Lastly the grooved flat surface is presented for working with. All with one hole that holds the stone at the correct angle.Sharpmaker is the easiest way to sharpen. Master that, then if you feel like going beyond, there are other tools out there. The sharpmaker does everything you need pretty well, especially for combo edges or serrations. I'd skip the strops for now, as mentioned, too many people think they are all you need to "sharpen" and in my opinion they are best used to refine an already sharp edge after a proper sharpening (which isn't really worth worrying about as a newbie sharpener). Add diamond rods after you get the ceramics down. Practice on a swiss army knife or kitchen knives as they have softer steels and are a good place to learn proper technique. Get a decent 10x loupe. This along with a Sharpie will teach you a lot about what's going on while sharpening. Just to make it even clearer for those who might be totally new to sharpening and the sharpmaker: What Bloke is saying basically:

This means we have three different working surfaces on the stones, the flat side, a pointed corner, and the groove. Here we have the stone fitted into the base so that we use the flat surface. While I love a good deal as much as the next person I also realize that tools are important and I'm OK with paying more for the high quality when it comes to tools, which I plan to have and use for a long time.


He uses the 40 degree setting: As you wrote, and as I experienced with my Delica CE and now Endela SE, the 30 degree setting is the way to go if you want to maintain the factory edge (and not create some 40 degree microbevel) at least on a Spyderco SE knife I’m going to see if I can simplify this for you a little bit. Every 10th time he suggests you use the 30° angle With the triangular stones, this is one of the few systems that can sharpen serrations, and is also happy working on hawksbill and recurve blades. To understand fully why, we need only look at the four ‘grades’ of sharpening that are achieved from the two stones.

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